Re-pointing flagstone

[diginahole]

I have a job re-pointing wet laid granite flags. There are a few pieces that will need to be stuck back on the concrete foundation as well. What formula do you use for the grout? For the mortar to re-stick the loose pieces?

[Stonehenge]

Sorry bud - the only formula advice I can offer would be to follow the instructions on the bag. 'Wet' work is not my field of expertise, though I'd love to get more involved with it.

[dan deutekom]

Look on the mortar mix bag. It should have the directions for this type of work. Just make sure that when you reattach the pieces back on the foundation you wet the granite and the foundation before you use the mortar. You will probably have to chip out some of the old mortar so that everything fits together right.You can also get a bonding agent that you mix with the mortar, that helps a lot. It is a substance that looks like white glue. It makes a big difference.

[site]

Buy the addative called K88 makes mortar more gluelike. Another trick in problem areas is to use liquid nails instead of mortar. it stays more flexible and sticks better than a thin bead of mortar.

[diginahole]

Anybody remember Seal-bond. I recall that it was an imoportant part of the dry pointing mortar. I was looking for it last year and it seems like it is gone from the marketplace. What is (was) it, plasticizer? Does masonary cement have placticizer in it? Would K88 be a suitable substitute?

It has been a while since I have done any wet laid flagstone. I think it went something like 4 parts sand, 1 portland, 1 Seal bond. I'll check the bag to be sure.

[dan deutekom]

Seal bond is the stuff I was thinking of. Its gone? I bought some last season. Check a good building supply. They must have it or the equivalent. Yes it was a plastisizer. It was mixed with the mortar and you could also mix it with water and paint it on to the stones and wall so that things would stick better.

[diginahole]

All right then, now that I know what it is it will make it easier to find a substitute if I can't find Sealbond.

[BRL]

Funny that you asked for a formula. I read an article once about something to do with masonry work, and one of the points made was this. If you were to line up 10 different masons and ask them wht their formula was, you'd get 10 different answers that don't match the directions on the bags. They each have their own secret recipe :chef: (LOL finally got to use this smilie in the context of a landscaping MB, pretty cool!!). I've experienced this also while working with a few different masons in the past. I'm not a mason so I don't do enough of that work to experiment, so I just follow the directions on the bags.

This is what I have used that may be the "Seal bond" or "K88" that you guys are referring to, or very similar? Most building supply places sell it, including Home Cheapo, Lowe's etc. if the local suppliers don't have it. Actually the first link is the page with some other similar products for different apps, and the second link is the one I think should be used for your app. We "paint" a little on the surface as well as use it in the mix, according to the directions. Haven't had any problems with it yet.
http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/catalog_repair.html
http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/ConcreteAcrylicFortifier.html

[diginahole]

Thanks for the link.

While googling around for some more info on the topic I came upon this page. paving expert.com (http://www.pavingexpert.com/mortars.htm) . This is the page on mortars. The rest of the site is awesome too.

[PSUscaper]

Hello,

check this out...should help.

http://www.pavingexpert.com/pointing.htm


I'm really starting to get into 'wet work myself.

did my first 'wet' stone wall the other week without the help of a mason. I wet laid blue stone treads on top of the wall and as step treads....came out real sharp looking....just have to work on pricing a little bit better.

I think something in the range of of 4 parts sand, 1 part portland, and 1 part mortar will do the trick for the joints.....just mix it so it is fairly dry.

one of the problems with re-jointing is that it is never as strong as the original. To really get a solid joint, the filler should be put in while the base is still wet so that it forms a solid connection between the cement in the joint and the bedding layer....now obviously you can't do this when you are re-jointing, so maybe it is best to just make the customer know that re-pair work is never as good as the original (which may not have been too good to begin with either)

Also, I like dying the mix. you can get dark mortar to mix in, or you can use a dye. I've been playing around with that Quickrete liquid dye you can get at most do it yourself centers......it looks so much nicer to have a dark joint over a 'gleaming white' joint. Plus, I think it help cover up any little mistakes that less experienced people make.........like myself!

I'm starting to enjoy concrete work as it really broadens your work spectrum. A lot of the older homes I work for opt for more masonry work and less of the dry laid stuff. I starting to think that it is a good market to get into to........most of the companies that do masonry work are,,,,well,,,,,masons......and we all know how they can be. People really appreciate dealing with someone who can show up everyday and not have jim beam on their breath......

steve

[Lanelle]

I had the opportunity to see why a certain client's flagstone walkways have to be re-pointed every year. A few stones had been torn out for some other work and I could see the 'base'. Hard to call plain soil a 'base' but that's all that appears to be under it. Now that I've pointed out this problem, I may have the opportunity to replace the whole thing. And I will have it done on concrete for the more formal look that is required for this site.