preparing the my backyard for sod or seed (nothern Illinois)

[gonefishin]

Hi all,

In the past I had my yard professionally landscaped...in which one of the things that were done is that sod was laid. While it did look pretty good at first...it eventually got taken over by some tall fescue. Which eventually took over. I tried to promote a healthy lawn with good watering techniques...high mowing...soil samples...everything I could think of. But these grass blades just took over.

Now, I've currently cut my old (backyard) lawn out in late spring while I do some other hardscape plans. During this time I pick and spray any weed or grass blade that comes up. I've sprayed the entire lawn area and spot sprayed the weeds or grasses that pop up many many times. But something I've noticed is that the fescue blade that took over my lawn previously is persistently popping up again. Is this what happened last time. The area gets cleared...sod or seed laid...and a year or two later these blades will again pop up and take over?

Am I doomed before I start? ...again!


is there anything I can do?



Do you have any other hints, tips or tricks for preparing/grading?



thanks all!

dan

[Fine Edge]

Here in NC we prefer the tall fescue. Why not switch over? Not sure how it grows in your area.

[Busy Bee]

@fishing What type of grass do you plan on growing? Fescue is a hardy grass and will provide a nice carpet in a few years. You should have a soil test done, in order to provide what ever grass you decide on, the needed essential nutrients. There is a verity of grasses on the market and you will need to decide on what will work for you in your zone.

[TrickyDick]

I'm with them. What's wrong with fescue? That is one of the turf grasses used commonly here. I don't know what you were trying to grow but there is a reason why most succesfull lawns are a mix of turf types. The fescue obviously does well there so why not use a mix with a lot of it?

[gonefishin]

Thanks for the replies :)

The sod that I laid down before was a kentucky,rye, fescue blend. What I didnt care for is the thicker course blades on the fescue and the structure (with the blades coming out in flat steps). Maybe I differnt variety would be more appealing to me ???

Right now...I'm thinking of seeding with a 60%bluegrass(three type blend)/40%rye. The area is rather small and surrounded by landscaping beds. It's already sprinkled and a little extra work isn't a problem with me as long as the results are good.

thanks all!

dan

[Fine Edge]

A good stand of fescue should make you want to take off your shirt and roll all over it , just like a dog would!!!

[Lanelle]

If your sod had Kentucky 31 Fescue in it, that would be a rather wide-bladed grass and worthy of replacement. The 'Improved Tall' Fescues are much finer and less clumpy and adding some bluegrass helps to get a nicely interwoven stand of turf.

[Busy Bee]

K31 is a good pasture grass but not good for lawns. KGB is mush finer and nicer type but it takes a while to greminate. Rye grass has a faster germination tome and will come in quicker.

[Paul]

If you want KBG then plant KGB seeds only! Kill the lawn now it's in the high 90's low 100's so it's about the right time anyhow.

Then wait until the 15th of August to regrade and sow your seeds. Sow 5 lbs per 1000 sq ft if broadcast, 3 lbs per 1000 if slit seeded. KGB will take over the lawn here without a problem, most people here see the heavier blades of grass which can be any number of weeds that thrive here and think they are K31 or the like.

Then start a good watering and fertilizer program.


You should use 3 to 5 different brands of KGB. That dosen't mean different suppliers, just different strains.

[gonefishin]

Thanks for all the help!


We had an above ground pool installed earlier this year. Before the pool was installed I removed all the sod. So, to this point, I've just been spraying or pulling all weeds and grasses that pop up.

The seed blends that are available to me, from my local StockDale company are what they call a Kentucky Classic Blend and an Estate Blend.

They are as follows (I'm guessing the actual blends will make more sense to you than they do me)

Kentucky Classic Blend
20% Diva Kentucky Bluegrass
20% Guinness Kentucky Bluegrass
20% Baron Kentucky Bluegrass
25% Sonic Kentucky Bluegrass
15% Princeton 105 Kentucky Bluegrass

Estate Blend
10% Diva Kentucky Bluegrass
10% Baron Kentucky Bluegrass
20% Sonic Kentucky Bluegrass
20% Park Kentucky Bluegrass
20% Quest2 Perennial Ryegrass
20% Nexus Perennial Ryegrass



Up until now...my thoughts were that I would seed with the Estate blend to have the Rye come up quicker. But if I would be better off with a different blend or the all kentucky blend...I'm willing to do that.


Thanks :D

dan :fishing:

[Busy Bee]

Paul wouldn't you do a soil test before killing off the grass or just start a regiment of high nitrogen fertilizer until this growing season is over?

[Paul]

knowing the soil there really helps, if anything a shot of sulpher might be needed. I don't like to start out with a high N program, most starting lawns need a P and K shot to really get the root development , something in the 9-24-24 range for the first quarters growth should be ok.

His real problem is getting the program started this comming spring. The weather is goofy here some years you have to start out in early March other years you need to start in April. Early stoppage of the crab grasses that we get here is more important.

He needs to keep killing the weeds until the 15 of next month.

We have also been leaning to the fine fescues here for sports fields do to the drier springs ans summers we have been having but still no sod supplier here offers blends of sod other than KBG. I have heard that some might try it later in the next couple of years.

[Busy Bee]

Ok the 15th of Aug. here can be one of the most brutal months. Would you wait to seed until the weather gets to 80 or below?The forecast here will be in the upper 90s. The only thing you can get to grow is the weeds.

[Paul]

Here weed germination ends around the last of July and the nights start getting cooler after the 15 of August. Now remember that KBG has a germination of 14 to 21 days and most the the better one are 21 days. Seeding here really ends after the 20th of September

[gonefishin]

Originally posted by Paul
[B]knowing the soil there really helps, if anything a shot of sulpher might be needed. I don't like to start out with a high N program, most starting lawns need a P and K shot to really get the root development , something in the 9-24-24 range for the first quarters growth should be ok.

I did plan on getting a soil sample before I seeded. But instead of waiting until it gets closer...I'll get it done this coming week.

His real problem is getting the program started this comming spring. The weather is goofy here some years you have to start out in early March other years you need to start in April. Early stoppage of the crab grasses that we get here is more important.

yep


He needs to keep killing the weeds until the 15 of next month.

will do!



Do you have any suggestions on soil preparation for seed? I was planning on breaking up the top. The soil is somewhat compacted...but it has loosened up after being exposed to all the elements. Should I bring in any additional soil to mix in when I seed? for a rake over?

thanks,
dan

[gonefishin]

I know that I was recommended to wait until the middle of next month to plant my grass, But my wife really wants grass in the yard before our daughters birthday party in September. So I'm going to have to start very soon...and keep things watered. Having an in-ground sprinkler system should help (I'm hoping)

My soil was compacted pretty bad so I rented a roto-tiller and tilled the back yard up.

I will be bringing a sample to my local seed place for testing to be done (to see if the soil needs anything).

I've got the beds defined with the dirt I had brought in (about 20yards), but I haven't got them cut in yet. I was going to rent the machine to cut in the beds before planting the grass, but now I'm thinking I should plant the grass first...let it get established then cut the bed edges in later.

Do I want to roll the tilled soil or just let the rain and elements naturally break things down enough to seed. Then after the grass gets established roll it out?

thanks,
dan

[ecoscapes]

If you really like fishing you should quit worrying about treating the crap out of your lawn cause it is only going to make the fishing worse! I don't get so called "outdoorsmen". If you knew anything about nature you would know that your want for a lawn that is the perfect is the enemy of you having good fishing. If you want a good lawn go to the nearest golf course and roll around on that.
I personally would rather have a nice lake or river than an intensively maintained lawn.

[gonefishin]

hehe :biglaugh: lol


It's amazing what small children can require a father to do. First the pool (which is why I removed the grass) and now grass.

The darn beach ball get full of mud every time it's hit out of the pool. Guess who has to put their shoes on to get the muddy beach ball? Yep, dear ol' dad...and I wouldn't have it any other way (of course it would be nice if we had grass instead of mud...but other than that ;) )

fishin' will have to take a back seat for a while :D


g'day,

dan