mulch questions

[Heather]

This is my first post, so be gentle if I've posted in the wrong forum. I represent a sub homeowners association, and I'm evaluating bids for landscaping and maintenance of a 2400 sq. ft. entrance island. About 4 years ago 10 years of old mulch, and all old plants were removed. Since then,we have added 5 Bradford Pears, some bushes and perennials. Last year, topsoil was put in for a few annual beds which were planted with Wave petunias. Annuals and trees have thrived. Perennials and bushes have merely survived. We may have been overwatering. Now, for my questions. The contractor that we like wants to rake off old mulch (there's almost nothing there), add 8 yards of topsoil, and add 2-3 inches of cedar mulch. Is this removal of old mulch customary? Why all the topsoil? Isn't hardwood mulch supposed to be better for perennials?

Our budget is fixed, and raising dues requires an act of congress, yet homeowners are quick to complain (to me). Not trying to stiff the contractor, just trying to maximize value. I would value any input.

[jshilan]

Hi Heather - Without seeing the project and going by your description, it sounds like the contractor knows what he's doing. As far as raking off the old mulch goes, there might be an issue with it and if it isn't that much than it shouldn't cost too much. 8 CY of topsoil isn't very much at all. If you spread it out over the entire area you could only put down 1". I'm sure he is using it to improve the exisitng soil quality and to backfill around the new plants, which is all good.

There are as many opinions about mulch as there are types of mulch. I don't believe any one mulch is better for the perennials than any other (although someone may post a different opinion). I also prefer cedar mulch, even though it is more expensive around here.

If the natives are restless about the costs, explain to them that there is an old gardners addage that says "if you have $50 to spend, spend 1$ on the plant material and $49 on the soil ammendments". Also show them how much money has been wasted on bad choices and low bidders that could have potentially been avoided by choosing a good contractor like the one you are describing.

Good luck with the project and thanks for posting!

[dan deutekom]

explain to them that there is an old gardners addage that says "if you have $50 to spend, spend 1$ on the plant material and $49 on the soil ammendments".


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

[Heather]

jshilan,
Thanks for the good advicce. Nothing like an old garden addage for guidance!

Heather

[Terre]

Because of seriously alkaline soil, I frequently remove old mulch that isn't breaking down and start fresh with a nice cedar mulch that as it breaks down over the years, will contribute to adjusting the ph of the soil. There may be a reason of that nature for what he is doing.

[familyguy]

cedar mulch does nothing for the soil. it is incredibly slow to decompose and the process of decomposition requires nitrogen. the nitrogen ends up coming from the soil.

the ideal choice for mulch is pine/spruce bark mulch that is aged already. it is already somewhat composted and therefore breaks down faster and adds organic nutrients to the soil.

it would be better if the amendment to the soil were actually compost rather than screened loam. compost usually does cost more though, but, is much better for the plant material.

finally, in our garden beds, we will use compost as a mulch because it is so much better for the plant material and the soil. we have clients that prefer to have the best at any cost though.

good luck with you rbid.